It's a conglomerate build-out with a soul. Not a chain restaurant yet, but a wanna-be culinary empire. The new, massive Mexican grill in Irvine is led by a chef who has traditional Mexican fare ingrained into his DNA and he"s cooking it up in a restaurant that mirrors the American way of life - stylish, brand new and big. Yes, there are reminders of old Mexico at Taleo Grill - wrought iron chandeliers with hand-blown glass, century-old pine tables and a vibrant color scheme of pink, orange and red hues balanced with dark woods and earth tones. The accents reflect a nostalgic, south of the border feel. But any pining for old world Mexico comes from some of the traditional dishes not the soaring ceilings and walls of windows. The concept comes from restaurateur and founder Nic Villarreal, and his hand-picked team who each have a heart-felt reason for making authentic Mexican food - most remember family feasts with similar dishes.
First, we ordered a round of margaritas as a true test of authenticity. They passed with flying colors. Their homemade sweet and sour mix is the secret, made from fresh-squeezed limes, oranges and Myers lemons. Pure; just like those I"ve sipped under palapas on remote beaches in Mexico. They also know their tequilas and offer 19 labels to choose from including top shelf classics such as the limited edition Don Julio 1942 to commemorate the year the first DJ tequila distillery opened. And don"t bother trying to order a blended. No blender here. It"s on the rocks or nothing.
The margaritas are perfect for washing down their tortilla chips and fresh guacamole or the queso fundido, a latin fondue with cotija and reggiano cheeses, mushrooms, poblano peppers, chorizo, and spices.
Thanks to Chef Jose Acevedo"s Mexican roots - he grew up in Mexico City, cooking with his mother and grandmother and learning about meat from his father, a butcher - the house specialty carnitas are amazing. Tender on the insides and crispy and caramelized on the outside, they could only come from a pro.This master of meats also does a classic, rich red mole sauce with a roasted half chicken and slow-roasted baby back ribs in chipotle barbecue sauce that practically fall off the bone. They also hand-pull this tender meat for the beef enchiladas.
A standout coastal dish is the red snapper Vera Cruz in a brothy sauce with capers and olives, but the garlic shrimp sautéed with white wine and cilantro was a bit too sweet and could use less sauce. Seafood lovers should try the pepita-crusted Atlantic salmon instead; its pumpkin seeds help retain a beautiful buttery taste and moist flakiness. Traditional side dishes include sautéed baby cactus, Mexican rice and cilantro lime rice.
Acevedo must have paid attention when his mother and grandmother were making desserts. His sweets are sublime and the key is in his skill. Flan may not have a complex recipe, but if you don"t invest the time or have the passion you won"t get it as smooth, creamy and decadent as Acevedo"s. I"d be hard pressed to find a flan that matches this. His sweet butter cake soaked in three different milks, or pastel de tres leches, is also a labor of love - moist and surprisingly light considering the butter and sugar.
Look for this newbie to spread its wings. Let"s just hope that as they expand they don"t go the way of many Mexican chains and instead maintain a standard that would make their ancestors proud.
Taleo Mexican Grill, 3309 Michelson Drive, Irvine. Appetizers $5-$10, Entrees $9-$25 Dessert $7. (949) 553-9002 or www.taleomexicangrill.com
