"Grilled meat is his first love, and his skill and experience shine in dishes such as the savory carnitas made from his father's acclaimed recipe; the fiery pork ribs in a smoky chipotle barbecue sauce; and the smoked apple-chipotle chicken, two half breasts grilled with a tangy, sweet barbecue sauce"
Taléo Mexican Grill first opened to mixed reviews. Most critics loved the look and feel of the place but came down hard on the kitchen for an uneven menu. That kind of criticism would have buried lesser talent. But the staff and managers at this upscale Mexican restaurant decided to redouble their efforts.
Chef José Acevedo revamped the menu, returning to the basics he learned to prepare (and eat) as a butcher's son in Mexico City and, later, in stints at several Mexican resort hotel kitchens. Grilled meat is his first love, and his skill and experience shine in dishes such as the savory carnitas made from his father's acclaimed recipe; the fiery pork ribs in a smoky chipotle barbecue sauce; and the smoked apple-chipotle chicken, two half breasts grilled with a tangy, sweet barbecue sauce. Seafood is done well, too: The camarones al mojo de ajo, sautéed shrimp in a stew of garlic, white wine, tomatoes, and cilantro, are exceptional.
Evidence of Acevedo's commitment to detail isn't just in the main dishes. Cilantro-lime rice, for example, is a delightful departure from the cliché, and the vegetable mix of fresh corn, onions, tomatoes, peppers, and squash — first grilled whole, then chopped and combined with a dash of chili and other spices — is savory and different.
Though the menu has changed, the decor remains the same. Taléo's ambience is decidedly upscale, a nearly perfect blend of the familiar — terrazzo floor in the bar, handcrafted woodwork and blown-glass chandeliers in the dining room — and edgier elements such as modern Mexican art and leather loungers on the patio and in the bar. An open kitchen and thoroughly professional and indulgent waitstaff cap a very fulfilling experience.
Taléo has certainly come full circle and deserves another shot from those who disliked it at first. It might just be the best upscale Mexican restaurant in the region.
